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Results 1 - 12 of Online shopping for Bike Repair from a great selection at Books Store. The Total Bike Maintenance Book: DIY Repairs Made Easy [Mel Allwood] on capersterpmofor.tk *FREE* shipping on qualifying offers. In these environmentally and . Want to be more confident on your bike and save money on repairs? Learn to maintain it with these books.
Modern how-tos like servicing and adjusting a Shimano derailleur clutch are peppered among the broader maintenance topics in the book. Those fundamentals are still in the 6th edition. There are sections about things like a proprietary Manitou thru-axle, pairing your Garmin with your Shimano Di2, and rebuilding Crank Brothers pedals, each of which are already covered in high-quality video and text how-tos generated by the manufacturers themselves.
It gets specific about several contemporary technologies, but leaves out so many others. Things like Wolf Tooth and OneUp range-expanding cassette rings, tubeless tire plugs, and frame geometry flip chips are nowhere to be found. And similar products are coming out at a pace no print publication can keep up with. But my point is not that there should be more of these books or more should be in them.
Rad Rides: Skippering a Small Keelboat: Skills from the Masters: Grant Headifen. Ron Cordes. Ultimate Bicycle Book.
Richard Ballantine. Sportbike Suspension Tuning. Andrew Trevitt. Bob Darnell. Training and Racing with a Power Meter, 2nd Ed. At the Edge: Riding for My Life.
Danny MacAskill. Learn the basics of bike repair at home The bicycling guide Book 1. Chris Amstrong. Terry Meany. New Releases in Bike Repair. Most Wished For in Bike Repair. Gift Ideas in Bike Repair. Back to top. Get to Know Us. site Payment Products. English Choose a language for shopping. site Music Stream millions of songs. site Advertising Find, attract, and engage customers. site Drive Cloud storage from site.
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site Inspire Digital Educational Resources. site Rapids Fun stories for kids on the go. site Restaurants Food delivery from local restaurants. Replace any worn cups or cones.
Put the non-drive cone and spacer over the axle and screw the cone on to the bearings with the peg spanner. Screw the locknut on to the axle. Then screw the cone back a little to the locknut. A bit of play in the axle is permissible, but too much will throw off the chain. Put the spacer back on the non-drive side of the axle and then push the crank back on to it. Pedals with open bearings require regular inspection and lubrication. Clipless pedals must be lubricated to ensure easy foot release.
The body of a pedal rotates around an axle and is supported on bearings that are either open or held within a cartridge. For example, studs that prevent foot slippage will help a rider who makes frequent stops, such as a commuter in heavy traffic. Some flat pedals are fitted with toe-clips and straps that hold the front of the foot, although they can interfere with the foot as the rider tries to remove it.
Clipless pedals hold the foot securely, while releasing it easily whenever the rider wants. Converting energy Pedals are the invention that defines cycling. They are the first step in the process of converting human energy into mechanical motion.
A knurled retainer attaches the pedal body to the axle. The cone not visible and the lockring can be adjusted to permit the free rotation of the body around the axle, without any play. The tools to remove the axles are specific to the make of the pedals, and will be either supplied with the pedals or available at a good bike shop.
Most pedals contain two bearings on which the pedal body revolves around its axle. These sometimes need replacing; in the case of ball-bearings, they need regular cleaning, checking, and greasing. Pedal axles can be damaged by an impact or during a fall, and a bent axle can cause riding discomfort or even injury.
After removing the pedals, rotate their axles by hand, feeling for the tight spots that are evidence of a bent axle. If the axle is bent, it will need replacing. Pedal axle 2 Hold the removed pedal, with the axle upwards, in a vice. Ensure that the remover tool fits snugly on to the retainer. The retainer may be damaged if you do not. Hold the cone with one spanner and remove the locknut with another.
The cone and locknut hold the bearings on the end of the axle. Grease the inner bearing to prolong its life. If it is worn, the whole axle assembly must be replaced. To reassemble the pedal, repeat Steps 1—4 in reverse order. Then lock the cone with the locknut. They hold the foot to the pedal by locking on to a cleat attached to the sole of the shoe. The mechanism that holds the cleat is spring-loaded — the foot is released by turning the heel outwards.
The release spring is an essential working part and must be kept clean and well lubricated. Use light oils on road pedals and heavier oils on off-road pedals. Wipe oil from the pedal body to stop your foot from slipping. The mechanism lets the foot pivot around its long axis during each revolution. The oil applied to the release spring is enough to keep the mechanism working well.
They need to engage and release the feet with equal Time road pedal These pedals offer a range of movement that can be adjusted to suit the requirements of individual riders. Keep them well maintained by scrubbing regularly with degreaser, using a stiff brush. Wash this off, then lubricate the release spring with heavier oil, dribbling it from a can.
Look road pedal A small Allen bolt in the centre of these easy-tomaintain pedals alters the degree to which the foot can pivot when pedalling.
Every now and then, dribble oil between the back plate and body. Ideally, you should be able to adjust them according to how much movement your feet make during pedalling. The pedals also let mud pass through to prevent them from becoming clogged. Time off-road pedal The few moving parts of this simple pedal are protected in the body of the pedal.
Keep the parts clean and dribble a little heavy oil into the point where the release bar enters the pedal body.
If necessary, replace the bearings and axles see pp. Clean and degrease the pedals regularly and lubricate the moving parts with a heavy lubricant. The release tension adjuster is on the back plate of this double-sided pedal. Crank Brothers pedal This is an open design with excellent mud clearance and very few moving parts — the retention mechanism is just a simple spring.
Clean the pedals regularly, and very occasionally re-grease the bearings using a grease gun and a special adaptor that is sold with the pedals. The right position also enables you to transfer the maximum amount of leg power into the pedals. Once you have set up the cleats, you might find that your feet try to return to their natural position as you ride.
However, do not alter its fore and aft position because the position shown here is the most efficient for applying power to the pedals. The steps in this sequence show an offroad pedal see pp. This point is usually slightly behind the smallest toe and is in line with the ball of the foot. The aim of setting up a cleat is to make sure that this part of your foot is exactly above the pedal axle when you ride.
Pedal cleats Take off your shoes and continue the mark you made with a straight line across the sole of your shoe, from outside to inside.
This line must be at right angles to the initial mark and should end on the inner side of the shoe, in line with the initial mark. Some cleats are marked to help with this alignment. Adjust the cleats to accommodate any foot position changes your test ride reveals, but keep the cleat centre over the axle. Tighten the cleat. Seal the Allen heads on the bolts that secure the cleats to off-road shoes.
These heads can fill with grit, causing them to lose shape and making it difficult to replace the cleats when they wear down. Prevent this by filling the Allen heads with blobs of a silicone sealant available from DIY shops. Regularly check and maintain the headset, handlebar, wheels, and hubs to safeguard their reliability at all times. The headset must be properly adjusted to allow smooth, safe steering and to prolong its life.
The bearings and bearing surfaces need regular inspection and lubrication and anything that is worn must be replaced at once. How they work The main function of the headset is to enable the rider to change the direction of the front wheel under any conditions.
There are two types of headset, threaded and threadless, and both hold the front fork securely in the head tube, while simultaneously allowing the fork to turn freely. The headset rotates on bearings, which are held in place by cups, one above the head tube, the other below.
For the forks to turn freely, these two cups press on the bearings just enough to prevent any play in the part of the fork known as the steerer tube. The way this pressure also known as load is achieved varies between the threaded and threadless headsets. Some types of threadless headset contain a wedge instead of a star washer. When the bolt is turned with an Allen key, it pushes the stem and spacer down on to the bearings in the top and bottom cups, and pulls up the steerer tube.
The bottom cup covers the bearings that sit on the fork crown race at the top of the fork crown. As a result, sufficient load is placed on both bearings to enable the front fork to turn freely but without play. The cup, and consequently the front fork, is then locked in place by a lockring that also screws down the threaded steerer.
Stem Links the handlebar and headset Quill Fits inside the threaded steerer Handlebar Steers the front wheel Top cup Loads the bearings Threaded steerer Connects the headset to the fork Headset Holds the fork in the head tube Expander bolt Draws up the wedge Lockring Locks the top cup in place Top bearings Allow the steerer to turn in the headset Wedge Jams the quill in the steerer Bottom bearings Allow the fork to turn Fork Holds and turns the front wheel Steering effectively A headset allows the rider to steer the front wheel effectively and confidently.
The handlebar, which is connected to the steerer tube by the stem, turns the fork and the front wheel. If you can see bolts on the side of the part that sits on top of the head tube, it is a threadless headset.
A number of different types of threadless headset can be fitted to modern bikes.
These range from the type that has both top and bottom cups, like the traditional headset, to others, such as the headset illustrated here, where the bearing surfaces fit inside the head tube. All the various types of headset work on the same principle and are taken apart in a similar way. Occasionally, you need to strip down the headset in order to check it for wear and to clean and lubricate the bearings.
If you find any cups or bearing surfaces are worn, you will need to replace the whole headset. This job requires specialist equipment and is best left to the experts in a good bike shop.
Adjusting and cleaning a threadless headset Remove the stem cap bolt from the centre of the stem cap with an Allen key. This bolt loads the headset to prevent play in it, rather than securing the stem. If there are no signs of wear, grease the bearing.
Examine for wear, put new grease on the bearings and re-install. Threadless headset Loosen the clamp bolts on the side of the stem once you have removed the cap bolt.
The stem and handlebar assembly are now free. It is the stem clamp bolts that secure the stem to the steerer. Secure the stem in place by tightening the clamp bolts. Take hold of the front fork, then lift the stem and handlebar from the steerer.
You can leave these to hang out of the way, supported by the brake and gear cables. This type of headset is designed to make it easy to raise and lower the stem whenever you want to change the height of the handlebar and adjust your riding position. The stem is equipped with a shaft, or quill, that fits inside the steerer. For safety reasons, you should never raise a stem above the limit marked on its quill.
On some even older headsets the top cup screws down. Its serrated top edge is held in place by a clamp bolt on a similarly serrated lockring assembly. When the clamp bolt is loosened, the top cup screws off. Remember to disconnect the brakes before you start working on the headset and make sure that you reconnect them when you have finished. Before the stem is replaced into the steerer of the headset, coat the quill with grease see pp.
Servicing a threaded headset Undo the Allen bolt in the stem centre and knock it downwards with a plastic mallet to free the steerer. The stem is secured into the steerer by an expander bolt which, as it is tightened, draws a wedge up inside the quill. You can access the top bearings by pushing the fork up the head tube and holding it there. Threaded headset 2 Unscrew the locknut while holding the top cup still with a headset spanner. Set the bearings individually in the greased cups and screw the top cup back on.
Bearings held in cages can be greased in situ so long as they are not worn out. Lower the fork to reveal the bearings in the bottom cup. Screwing the top cup upwards allows this to happen. Although most headsets have ball-bearings held in cages, watch out for loose bearings that may drop out of the bottom cup. Some headsets have roller bearings — treat these as ball-bearings in the following steps. Replace the spacers and locknut. A rider must be able to rely totally on the handlebar, so for safety reasons, a handlebar must be replaced at once if scratches, stress marks, or cracks develop on the surface.
Straight handlebar Owners of road bikes sometimes want to change the handlebar to a different shape, often to suit the proportions of their body or because of their cycling needs. Some cyclists want to replace a drop handlebar with a straight, or flat, bar. Others may want to replace their existing straight bars with riser bars, or vice versa. Riser bars, which are fitted to mountain bikes, are straight in the centre, then rise up to become straight where the grips are. They are fitted the same way as a straight handlebar.
The steps in this sequence apply to all straight handlebars, whatever the reason for replacing them. However, when replacing a drop handlebar with a straight bar, it will necessary to swap the brake levers for levers that work with flat or riser bars. Some of these steps will also be useful when fitting new grips, brake levers, gear-shifters, or bar-ends to an existing handlebar. Smooth the area with emery paper.
Check that the bar is centred before tightening it fully. If you are fitting a riser bar, decide what angle of sweep you want it to be before tightening the bolts. Straight handlebar Secure the ring clamp of the brake lever to the handlebar. Like road brake levers, off-road levers have a ring clamp that fits over and secures them to the handlebar.
Some off-road brake levers have integrated shift levers with only one clamp. However, some are separate so there are two clamps to go over the handlebar. When the hairspray dries, the grips will fit tightly to the handlebars.
Clamp on the bar-ends. Line them up parallel with the angle of your stem to begin with, then adjust their angle to suit your own preference after riding. A drop handlebar must be replaced immediately if any cracks develop on its surface. The steps in this sequence will show how to replace a drop handlebar and how to fit, and therefore how to re-position, brake levers. Cyclists with larger hands and long arms may prefer to mount the levers lower down the handlebar than the ideal position shown here.
Regularly replace the handlebar tape as shown in Steps 5 and 6, and insert a plug in each end of the handlebar after taping to prevent possible injury in a fall.
Fitting a drop handlebar Use a medium, half-round file to remove any raised areas of metal inside the part of the stem that clamps the bar in place. These raised areas can bite into the handlebar, eventually causing them to fracture. Pull the lever hood cover forwards to access the bolt. The bolt on Shimano levers is further down the outer side of the lever hood so that you need to put your Allen key into a recess under the rubber cover.
Before you secure the bolts, try to line up the flat part of the bottom of the handlebar with a point just below the back brake. This ring clamps the lever to the handlebar. Pull the cover of the brake lever hood forwards and place a short length of tape over each steel ring. When you reach the top of the handlebar, secure the tape with insulating tape. The cones and bearings of open-bearing hubs must be lubricated regularly and adjusted to let the hubs spin freely, with little play.
The bearings in both types need regular checking and replacing when worn. How they work The hub allows the wheel to revolve. The axle remains static while the hub body spins around on bearings. The gears on a bike are located on the rear hub, either as a hub-gear unit or as multiple sprockets in the case of derailleur gears.
The freewheel mechanism, which is also on the rear hub, allows a rider to cease pedalling while the bike is in motion — for example, on a downhill stretch of road.
This mechanism is part of the hub in both hub gears and hubs with cassette sprockets. Minimizing friction Free-spinning hubs are an essential part of an efficient bike. When the hub is assembled, the bearings sit in the hub body, just to the outside of the flanges, with the axle running through them. Lockrings ensure that everything is held in place.
Each set of bearings is held in place by a cone not visible that is screwed down on the thread at the end of the axle. A locknut not visible locks the cone in place on the same thread. If the hub is held by a quick-release mechanism, the axle is hollow to allow the quickrelease skewer to go through it. The open-bearing hubs require much more maintenance than the cartridge type see pp.
As a result, the ability to strip down and service an open-bearing hub is a skill that can be used repeatedly. The following steps will help you to remove an axle and a freehub, as well as regrease and retighten the bearings.
They can be applied to a Shimano front or rear hub and a Campagnolo front hub. However, leave servicing a Campagnolo rear hub to the experts at a bike shop because it requires specialist tools. If you are working on a rear hub, you need to remove the cassette by following the steps on pp.
Overhauling an open-bearing hub Remove the locknut on the drive side with a spanner while holding the non-drive side cone with a cone spanner. Some locknuts can be removed with an ordinary spanner, others with an Allen key. Open-bearing hub Pull the axle out from the non-drive side. Be careful not to dislodge any of the ballbearings as you do so.
Check to see if the axle is bent by rolling it on a flat surface and looking for any irregular motion. Replace damaged cones or bent axles immediately. Insert an Allen key into the 8mm or 10mm Allen bolt located in the centre of the freehub. This bolt holds the freehub body on to the axle. You may need a bit of force to loosen this bolt so use an Allen key with a long handle for extra leverage.
Fit the new hub body or the cleaned old one by reversing Step 3. However, unlike many cartridge bottom brackets, you can change bearings when they wear out. Replacing the bearings is a straightforward task that requires special drifts to drive out the old bearings and drive in the new.
Check the bearings by removing the wheel from the bike and spinning it while holding the axle. If you feel any roughness the bearings are worn. Excessive play of the hub on the axle is also a sign of wear. Only the hub is shown in these steps, but you will deal with the whole wheel.
You can also follow these steps to replace a bent or broken axle — although rare, it can happen if a bike hits a bump in the road and the rider is not prepared for it, or when landing jumps on a mountain bike or a BMX. Remove the seals from each side of the hub axle. Some seals are retained by a lockring that is secured with a grub screw; others just require prising off.
Cartridge hub 2 Rest the hub flange between two blocks of wood held in a vice. This is a metal cylinder with the same diameter as the centre of the cartridge bearing. Push the second bearing on to the axle, then place the drift on to a flat surface, such as the flat portion of the vice. If you are not using a vice, place a piece of thick metal on the work surface or even the floor. The surface must be strong enough to absorb the mallet blows.
Do this from behind the bearing, by tapping the drift from the same side of the hub from which you removed the axle. Lower the hub down on to the axle. Make sure that the axle is through the middle of the bearing you have already fixed inside the hub. Secure the lockrings on to the axle. The grooves on the seals must snap back into place or the seals will not work.
The tyres are the component that make contact with the ground. Match the tyres on your bike to the prevailing riding conditions and always be ready to replace worn-out tyres. The steps are for wheels with quickrelease levers that secure them in the dropouts the recess in the frame into which the axle fits.
For bikes with axle nuts, loosening and tightening with a spanner corresponds to unlocking and locking the quick-release lever. Check levers are locked before each ride, and during a ride if disc brakes are fitted. The rim brake needs to be released on the wheel being removed. For V-brakes, unhook the cable from its cradle; for cantilevers unhook the straddle wire from the left brake arm; for callipers, use the quick-release lever.
Some quick-release levers are shaped so that they bend towards the frame when in the locked position. This provides a visual check if nothing is printed on the lever. Pull the quick-release lever to the unlocked position.
If the drop-out has safety lips, the wheel will not come out of the fork at this stage. These safety lips prevent the wheel falling out in the unlikely event of the lever becoming unlocked while you ride. Hook the chain out of the way and on to the peg situated on the inner side of the right seat stay if there is one.
Reconnect the brake. At home, you can repair the punctured tube with adhesive and a patch. It is still a good idea to carry a repair kit on every ride, because you might be unlucky enough to get a second puncture and be forced to repair the tube outdoors. The main point to remember about mending a puncture is not to rush any of the stages. If you patiently give the glue time to dry, closely examine the inside of the tyre, and carefully refit the tube, then you will be rewarded with a successful repair.
If you miss anything or trap the inner tube, you may get another puncture. Mending a punctured inner tube Take the wheel out of the bike. Place one tyre lever under the tyre bead and lift it off the rim. Hook this lever around one of the spokes. Push the second lever forwards and run it around the whole circumference of the rim to remove one side of the tyre.
Puncture repair Inflate the tube a little and listen for the sound of escaping air. Locate the hole, mark it with a crayon, and let the air out of the tube. Use a small piece of sandpaper to dust some chalk over the patch to prevent excess adhesive from sticking to the inside of the tyre.
Allow time for it to become tacky. Press the patch firmly on to the adhesive for over a minute. Make sure that the edges are flat. Put one side of the tyre fully back on to the rim. Slightly inflate the tube, insert the valve into the hole in the rim, and then work the tube back inside the tyre.
Work the tyre back around the rim. To do this, pinch the tyre together and look around the whole circumference of the wheel. However, replacing multiple spokes, replacing spokes in non-standard wheels, and truing a wheel that has been buckled by some kind of impact are jobs that are best left to the experts in a good bike repair shop.
It is essential to true the wheel after replacing a broken spoke because the wheel rim is kept straight by the combined pull of all the spokes acting on it. If one spoke breaks, its pull is missed and the rim as a whole goes out of line. A wheel jig is needed to true a wheel properly. This tool holds the wheel securely in place and its jaws provide a reference point either side of the rim to help judge how out of line the wheel has become.
Bringing it in line is a matter of tightening the new spoke until it reaches the same tension as the old spoke. Replacing a spoke and truing a wheel 1 Remove the wheel and take off the tyre and inner tube. If the head of the spoke is broken, measure the broken spoke so you can download the correct length to replace it. If the break occurred in another place, measure the two pieces to get the right length.
For the first few turns you can use your fingers. If it is not laced properly, tensioning the spoke in Steps 5 and 6 could damage the wheel. Spokes and rims Insert the new spoke, threads first, into the hub flange from the opposite side to its two neighbours. Push the nipple of the new spoke through the rim hole from inside the rim and screw it on to the spoke.
To do this, look at the spoke four along and lace the new spoke exactly the same way. Make sure that the spoke key is precisely the right size for the nipples on the wheel. Repeat and check each quarter turn until the rim is straight. Pads must be checked to ensure that they contact the rim fully and at the same time, and replaced when they are worn.
Brake cables must be checked and lubricated regularly. How they work The three most common types of rim brake, V-brake, cantilever, and calliper, work in a similar way. A lever pulls a cable, which causes the two brake arms to move towards each other simultaneously. This action brings the two pads into contact with the braking surface of the wheel rim.
Springs cause the arms to move back when the lever is released. The inner cable in a V-brake and calliper pulls one arm, while the outer, in resisting this pull, effectively pushes the other arm. Braking safely Rim brakes must be set up properly and maintained to very high standards if they are to work effectively and safely on any surface and in all conditions. When pulled, the cable pulls this arm towards the rim. At the same time, the cable-guide tube, which is an extension of the cable outer, pushes the other Cable-guide tube Pushes the brake arm Brake arm Pivots inwards on a brake boss arm inwards.
The two arms pivot around the brake bosses, pushing the brake pads against the braking surface on the rim. As it leaves the lever, the brake cable runs inside a cable outer, which sits in a barrel adjuster. This barrel adjuster allows the brake travel to be fine-tuned. For a heavily used bike, change the brake cables every two months; for a bike ridden lightly two or three times a week, change the brake cables once a year.
The steps in this sequence are performed on the back brake. Replacing a cable on the front brake follows the same principles, but there are no cable guides to thread through. Brake levers that fit a drop handlebar require a brake cable with a pear nipple. Always keep a new cable in the toolbox or workshop as a spare.
A rear cable can be cut to fit the front as well. Once the cable has been removed, remember to put a few drops of lubricant on the pivots around which the brake lever moves, and spray some oil into the tube inside the lever hood where the cable is inserted. Loosen the cable-clamp bolt on the brake calliper. Remove the old cable by pulling its nipple from the lever hood with long-nosed pliers. When you apply the brake, ferrules prevent the cable outers from being pulled through the cable guides on the frame.
Put a little oil on the end of the ferrule to help it slide into place and wipe off any excess. Drop handlebar brake cable 2 Insert the new, greased cable into the cradle on the lever in which the nipple sits. Measure the old outer and cut the new one to the same length. Push it in and look for it coming out of the back of the lever hood.
Now pull it through the lever hood from behind. Pull the cable through the cable-clamp bolt on the calliper until each brake pad is about 2mm from the wheel rim. If the brake has a quick release, ensure that it is in the closed position before tightening the clamp bolt. Do not file more than you have to.
They also need replacing if they start fraying and become worn.
The hybrid bike in this sequence has V-brakes, but some mountain bikes are equipped with cantilever brakes. Fitting cables is similar for both. Brake cables also require regular cleaning and lubricating, especially if the bike has been ridden consistently in wet weather. All brake levers that fit on to a straight or riser handlebar require a cable with a barrel nipple. Regardless of the manufacturer, the barrel nipple fits into the brake lever in the same way. Remember to use ferrules on both ends of every length of new outer cable.
Crimp a cable tidy on the end of the cable, once everything is secure and working as it should. In these steps the tyre is removed from the wheel to show clearly what is happening. Replacing V-brake cables on a hybrid bike Undo the cable-clamp bolt on the brake. Note where the nipple sits in the cradle that is part of the lever and remove the cable from inside the brake lever by pulling it out with long-nosed pliers. If they are not worn, you can use them again. Flush them out with degreaser and dribble oil into them.
Tighten the clamp bolt when the pads are about 2mm from the rim. Straight handlebar brake cable Cut new cable outers to the same length as the outers you removed or measure them up on your bike and trim as needed. download cable outer either in a roll or in pre-cut lengths with inners in a cable kit. The pre-cut lengths may be too long for your bike so you may still have to cut to fit.
When it shows through the barrel adjuster, pull it from this side of the lever until the nipple is seated in the lever cradle. Pull the brake lever until the brake is fully applied.
This ensures that all cable outers are bedded in and all bolts are tight. If you have to pull it too far before the brake bites, the brake needs adjusting. Check the brake pads for wear and alignment, and ensure that they contact the braking surface of the rims simultaneously.
How far the lever has to be pulled before the brake comes on depends on the rider. People with smaller hands may prefer more travel in the lever before the brake bites, because they will pull with more strength the closer the lever is to the handlebar. Apart from their quick releases, all dualpivot calliper brakes such as the Shimano brakes shown here work in the same way, regardless of the manufacturer. This means that you should be able to apply these steps to your bike, whatever its brakes.
If the pads are wearing down towards half their original depth they must be replaced. If the pad and shoe are a complete piece, replace the whole unit, releasing the old pad and fitting the new one with a 5mm Allen key. Calliper brake Using quick-release mechanisms 2 Adjust the brake pads so they are directly in line with the braking surface of the rim. Pads that have Use a quick-release mechanism when the adjusted brake pads are so close to the rim that it is impossible to remove the wheel.
Campagnolo and Shimano calliper brakes are equipped with different quick-release systems. Press the small button at the side of the brake lever to move Campagnolo calliper brake pads away from the rim. The brake cable will then move through the fixing bolt. After replacing the wheel, lower the lever. Maintaining brake performance is crucial because of the harsh conditions to which mountain bikes are sometimes subjected, so knowing how to adjust the brakes at home and out on the trail is very important.
Pad alignment and brake travel need to be checked and adjusted regularly to keep them working properly. Bear in mind that as soon as you ride off-road you will increase brake pad wear.
Even a single ride can render already worn pads useless, so change them before they need it. Adjustment in the workshop, especially pad alignment, is best performed with the tyre removed, since off-road tyres are bulky and can be in the way.
Wheels must run true before setting up brakes see pp. Check that the stopper pin on each brake arm is seated in the same hole on the brake bosses. If it is not, remove the pivot bolt, slide the brake arm off the boss, and put the pin into the correct hole.
Then tighten the cable-fixing bolt. V-brake Press the brake arms together. If they are not vertical when the pads touch the rim, rearrange the spacers either side of the pads until they are vertical.
Do this when you remove the wheel with correctly adjusted V-brakes. Undo the brake-pad fixing bolt, remove the pad and shoe assembly, and swap the spacers around. If they are worn, remove the pad-retaining clip, push the old pad from the shoe, and replace it with a new one.
Then tighten the fixing bolts. Use a cross-head screwdriver to tighten or loosen the centring screw on each brake arm. The aim is to make both arms move an equal distance before the pad touches the rim when you apply the brake lever. Screw out the barrel adjuster on the brake lever to reduce brake travel and make the brakes feel more responsive.
This technique is quick and easy to perform, and is especially useful for riding in the wet when brake pads can wear down rapidly. This is why touring and cyclo-cross bikes are fitted with cantilevers. Cantilevers were the predecessors of V-brakes, so they may also be fitted to older mountain and hybrid bikes.
Keep cantilever brakes running smoothly by regularly checking the pads for wear and adjusting the pad alignment and brake travel. The cable of the cantilever brake shown in these steps is clamped to one brake arm and the straddle wire running off it attaches to the other arm.